Things to Do in Kyrenia: Harbour, Castles and Mountain Villages

If Famagusta is the island’s history, Kyrenia (Girne) is its postcard. Walk down to the little horseshoe harbour late in the afternoon and you see why at once: stone houses at the water’s edge, boats rocking gently, and behind it all the ridge of the Kyrenia range drawing a line across the sky. Some 25 km from North Nicosia, it is where most of the north’s tourism gathers, and no town on that coast is livelier.

If you are staying in Famagusta, Kyrenia makes a fine day out across the island. Here is how to fill that day.

Kyrenia in a day

1. Morning — Kyrenia Castle and its Shipwreck Museum, as soon as the gates open.
2. Late morning — coffee and a stroll around the old harbour at the castle’s foot.
3. Midday — up to the village of Bellapais for the abbey and lunch.
4. Afternoon — climb to St Hilarion Castle on the ridge, or wander the quiet lanes of Karmi.
5. Sunset — back to the harbour to watch the light fade over the water.

That is ambitious for one day. If you would rather not hurry, split castles and villages over two days; Kyrenia more than deserves a night.

The old harbour and Kyrenia Castle

The heart of Kyrenia is its old harbour. The stone buildings along the quay now house cafés and restaurants — calm in the morning, glittering after dark. At one end rises Kyrenia Castle, marked by every power that held this harbour over the centuries; from its walls, harbour and town come together in one view.

The Shipwreck Museum

The museum inside the castle is reason enough to come to Kyrenia. Inside lies the hull of a trading vessel lost just off Kyrenia in about 300 BC, among the oldest ships ever brought up from the sea. Standing before that ancient timber, more than two thousand years old, has a strange way of making a room go quiet.

Bellapais: an abbey above the sea

Just above Kyrenia, in the village that shares its name, stands Bellapais Abbey. Built in the 13th century, it is one of the most graceful Gothic buildings on the island, and the view down to the coast through its arches is unforgettable. Lawrence Durrell wrote about the village in Bitter Lemons; if you have read it, the lanes will feel familiar.

Bellapais is lovely at midday, but in late-afternoon light it becomes something else entirely. Leave time for photographs.

Castles in the clouds

Three castles stand along the Kyrenia range: St Hilarion, Buffavento and, at the eastern end towards Famagusta, Kantara.

St Hilarion

High on the rocky ridge that looms over Kyrenia, St Hilarion is said, in local legend, to have inspired Disney’s fairy-tale castles. The road winds and the steps are steep, but the view from the top repays every one of them. Restoration work has closed parts of the castle at times, so confirm it is open before setting out, and wear good shoes and carry water.

Buffavento

Remote and harder to reach, Buffavento is for those who want an adventure away from the crowds. The last stretch is on foot, and on a clear day the view takes in both sides of the island.

Villages and mountains: Karmi and the Five Finger

In the foothills above Kyrenia, Karmi is a quiet village of narrow lanes, flowering courtyards and stone houses. Leave the car at the edge and explore on foot; after the bustle of the harbour, its stillness is a welcome counterweight.

Behind the town, the Five Finger Mountain (Beşparmak) takes its name from its row of finger-like peaks. Roads along the range open onto views of the coast and the sea below, but mountain roads are winding — take them slowly.

Kyrenia’s beaches

The coast east and west of Kyrenia is lined with beaches. To the east is Alagadi, a sea-turtle nesting beach that shuts overnight while the nests are active. For facilities and a comfortable full day, choose Escape Beach or Acapulco; for something quieter, Kervansaray. We compare them with the beaches of Famagusta and Karpaz in our North Cyprus beaches guide.

With a second day

If you stay the night, give the second day a slower rhythm. Climb to Buffavento early, while the air is cool; stop at the viewpoints on the Five Finger range on the way down, where the Kyrenia coast lies spread out like a map; take a long, quiet lunch in Karmi or another foothill village; and spend the afternoon in the sea. If you visit Alagadi in the nesting season, go by day and keep well away from marked nests. Then, one last time, the harbour after dark, when the lights reflect in the water, the stone quay glows and the castle melts into the night.

Getting there and getting around

• From Ercan Airport: around 40 minutes by car. See our Ercan airport guide for transfers.
• From Famagusta: the main roads are dual carriageways, running via North Nicosia; for a day trip, set off early.
• Driving: traffic keeps to the left, speed cameras are common and the mountain roads wind. Our driving guide is worth reading first.
• Tickets and hours: the castles and the museum revise their fees and opening times, so confirm them before your visit.
• Season: spring and autumn are best for climbing to the castles; in summer, climb in the morning.

Kyrenia or Famagusta?

They are not alternatives but companions. After a day in Kyrenia, come back to Famagusta for the Old Town and Salamis — and let the evening close at LÉAA LOUNGE, our lounge in Famagusta for food, cocktails, coffee, wine and shisha. Our menu is here.

The last image you take from Kyrenia will probably be the little harbour shining in the shadow of the mountains. Reason enough to stay a night longer next time.